Hiking the Smoky Mountains
Mount Sterling Fire Tower Day Hike

Constructed in the early thirties by workers from the Civilian Conservation Corps camp at Big Creek, the Mount Sterling fire tower is a sixty-foot tall monument to a time now gone. In the park’s early days, a fire warden spent many hours in the tower, keeping a close eye on the heavily forested terrain of the surrounding mountains. Some of his hours away from this important post were spent in the cabin that once stood at the site, north of the where the tower still stands. On occasion, he probably also traveled to the nearby town of Waynesville, North Carolina to gather supplies. On his way back to the tower, he more than likely took the same path that we will take in order to reach the summit of Mount Sterling.

The shortest route to the fire tower is to take the Mount Sterling Trail. Reaching the trailhead is a bit of an adventure in and of itself, and will more than likely take you down a few roads you’ve never seen before. From Knoxville or Asheville, take exit 451 (Waterville) off of Interstate 40. Proceed to the extremely small township of Mount Sterling (a little over two miles), where you will encounter a four-way intersection. Take a left and proceed 6.7 miles to Mount Sterling Gap and the trailhead.

Mount Sterling Gap is one of the more historic gaps in the Smoky Mountains. The most famous story associated with the spot occurred near the end of the Civil War. Captain Albert Teague was a confederate scout who spent most of his time keeping an eye on Union sympathizers in east Tennessee and western North Carolina. He also spent time watching for outliers (war deserters) of draft age. One fateful day, Teague captured three such outliers: George Grooms, his brother Henry Grooms, and a simpleton named Mitchell Caldwell. The three were forced to march on foot from Big Creek to somewhere in the vicinity of Mount Sterling Gap (the actual location varies from one account to the next). Henry Grooms, a talented fiddle player, had been forced to carry his fiddle during the long march. His captors commanded him to play one last tune on his fiddle before they executed him, and Grooms fittingly chose the tune "Bonaparte’s Retreat;" the haunting melody is called "The Grooms Tune" in many parts of the mountains to this day. Upon completing his performance, Henry Grooms asked his captors if he could pray for a moment before they killed him. George Grooms is said to have died cursing the scouts. Mitchell Caldwell, who was described as a slow-witted man, simply grinned at his captors, so unnerving them that they were forced to cover his face with a hat before they could bring themselves to execute him. Teague’s scouts left the three bodies at the side of the road. Eventually, Henry Grooms’ wife, Eliza, and a Sutton boy took the bodies back to Big Creek by ox-sled, where they were buried in the Sutton Cemetery.

Park your car at Mount Sterling Gap and proceed up the Mount Sterling Trail. The ascent is steady and a little challenging, but the trail is in fairly good shape. After climbing for about a half a mile, you’ll pass the Long Bunk Trail and the trail will level out for a moment before resuming its ascent. You’ll travel through a series of long switchbacks, with occasional views of Little Cataloochee and the surrounding country. When you see the junction of the Mount Sterling and Mount Sterling Ridge Trails, you’re within a half-mile of the mountain’s peak. Eventually, you’ll reach backcountry campsite #38 and just beyond that you’ll see the fire tower. There isn’t much of a view from the ground, so you’ll need to scale the wood and metal staircase of the tower in order to get the best view. On a clear day, you’ll be able to make out Balsam Mountain and Luftee Knob to the west, Mount Guyot to the northwest, Max patch to the east, and Cataloochee Valley to the south. If you have a very good eye, you can even make out the Mount Cammerer fire tower, which lies north by northwest from Mount Sterling.

When you’re done taking in the view, descend the tower and return to your car via the same route.