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Although only
two miles in length, the trail to Chimney Tops requires strength
and caution. Nevertheless, due
to the excellent views available from this trail, as well as
abundant wildflowers, streams and large trees, many feel a hike
up to "the chimneys" is well worth both effort and
risk. By this logic, Chimney Tops trail has become one of the
Great Smoky Mountain National Park's most popular trails.
To reach the
Chimney Tops trailhead from Gatlinburg Tennessee, take Newfound
Gap road into the park. Newfound Gap road is the only road which
completely traverses the Great Smoky Mountain National park,
linking Cherokee NC to Gatlinburg TN. From the Sugarlands Visitor
Center, continue 6.7 miles until you reach the parking lot at
the Chimney Tops trailhead. The parking lot and trailhead is
located between the lower tunnel and "the loop" on
Newfound Gap road. If traveling from Cherokee to Chimney Tops,
take the Newfound gap road twenty-two miles from Oconaluftee
Visitor Center.
Once at the
trailhead, there is plenty of room for parking, but the trail
itself is sometimes a bit crowded due to its popularity. A tour
bus in the parking lot means more people on the trail, so if
you are looking for a back-to-nature experience along this trail,
you may enjoy a hike to Chimney Tops during off-season. If so,
beware of ice in really cold weather, as the trail is steep,
rising 1,300 feet from the trailhead to the chimney-like pinnacles
which give this trail its name. Ice tends to form early at the
higher elevations of the Great Smoky Mountain National park.
The highest point of Chimney Tops trail is 4,840 feet above
sea level.
The Chimney
Tops Trail begins at the low rock wall bordering the parking
lot area. Here you will find Eastern hemlocks. The trail descends
to a bridge across the Walker Camp Prong of the Little
Pigeon River. In fact the trail crosses several bridges and
tributaries along the one mile hike to Beech Flats. The second
and third bridge both cross the Road Prong and guide the hikers
on to the next landmark, Beech Flats Cove. This is approximately
the half way mark of the trail. At Beech Flats, the Chimney
Tops Trail crosses the Road Prong Trail that in turn leads to
the Appalachian Trail at Indian gap 2.3 miles away. If your
destination is Chimney Tops, you will want to stay on the main
trail that veers right into a creek valley on the north side
of Sugarland Mountain. This part of the trail cuts through an
inspiring old growth forest, but beware of tree roots which
have tripped many a hiker as they admired these old giants of
the Smokies. At the top of the gulch, you'll see one of the
oldest yellow Buckeyes in the Park, and just beyond the Buckeye
are two sharp switchbacks that take the hiker to the bottom
of the Chimneys as they rise from Sugarland Mountain.
The upper end
of Chimney Tops trail is not a graded trail as it was in the
beginning. The upper end of the trail narrows to a smaller trail
called a manway. Narrowing, the trail continues on quite a distance.
At its steepest point, the manway becomes an arduous climb--especially
if ice has formed on the trail. The terrain can be rugged in
places.
Two miles into
the hike, you will be able to see the chimneys themselves. Care
should be taken as you follow the path to the right that leads
to the top. Here you can see Mount Le Conte to the east, Mount
Mingus to the south, and to the west, a steep wooded side of
Sugarland Mountain. Injuries have occurred in this area, as
there is a hole large enough to fall into, so take precautions
to keep yourself and your loved ones safe.
Despite the
obvious risks, even the upper end of Chimney Tops trail is worn
smooth in places by the hoards of
hikers willing to risk life and limb to experience "the
chimneys". Why? Adventure perhaps? Or perhaps the urge
to explore the chimneys for themselves? Perhaps others go simply
to be edified by the breathtaking views of the surrounding mountains,
while others go to enjoy the abundant beauty of the old growth
forest and flora to be found there. Whatever the reason, the
popularity of this trail continues season after season.
There are many
plants of interest along the length of Chimney Tops trail. Old
Hemlocks grace its top, and flowering trees and shrubs dot it's
length. See how many you can recognize along your walk. To get
you started, there is a large Fraser magnolia near the first
bridge along this trail. Its blossoms are large, white and pretty
hard to miss when in bloom in late April or early May.
 Rhododendron
is abundant along Chimney Tops trail. Also common are a variety
of  wildflowers.
In Spring, you can find Trillium (right) and Hepatica (left).
In Summer, Joe-Pye weed, Bee-balm, and Jewelweed can be found.
Violets, Toothworts, and Foamflowers also grow nearby. On the
trail to the Chimneys people rave about the yellow buckeye trees
due to the age of these trees, their unusual leaf structure
and the flowers which appear in May. A trek to Chimney Tops
will make you understand why it is so popular. You will probably
want to return on your next visit to the Smokies--and get fit
in the process!
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hiker should be prepared for a wide range of temperatures and conditions.
The temperature on this hike can be 10 degrees cooler than when you
left the lower elevation. Combine this with the fact that the Smokies
are also the wettest place in the South, and you have the possibility
for great discomfort in the event of a sudden storm. The higher elevations
in the park can receive upwards of 90 inches of precipitation a year.
Don't judge the complete day by the morning sky.
In summer the days usually start out clear, but as the day heats up,
clouds can build up, resulting in a heavy shower. Winter is a great
time to be in the Smokies, but also represents the most challenging
time as well. Frontal systems sweep through the region, with alternately
cloudy and sunny days, though cloudy days are most frequent in winter.
When traveling in the Smokies, it's a good idea
to carry clothes for all weather conditions.
Footwear should be chosen with care. Though tennis
shoes may be generally appropriate for some day hikes, boots should
be worn on the uneven trails in the Park. They support the ankles
from sprains and the foot from cuts and abrasions.
Stay on the designated trail, because most hikers
who get lost do so when they leave the path. If you get temporarily
lost, try to retrace your steps until you cross the trail again. Then
its just a matter of guessing which way you were headed when you left
the trail. You will either continue the way you were headed or go
back to your starting point--either way, no harm is done.
Always bring rain gear and a wool sweater. They
don't weigh much and might make the difference between being miserable
or not in the event it rains. As mentioned earlier, the Smokies get
approximately 90 inches of rain a year. This is good. Its what makes
the Smokies such a wonderful place to be. Don't start a hike if thunderstorms
threaten--some of the most devastating damage ever to the Park has
been from great storms which can be upon you with little warning.
Cross streams carefully. Getting wet, even in
summer, could lead to hypothermia, which leads ultimately to disorientation,
poor decision making and, in extreme circumstances, death. Having
said that, don't let a fear of hypothermia, getting lost, or bears
prevent you from the enjoyment to be had by trekking the trails of
the Park.
When we questioned a Park Ranger about how to
react to meeting a bear on the trail, he smilingly told us the most
likely sighting of a bear will be its tail disappearing over a ridge.
Most "incidents" occur when an ignorant visitor feeds or
otherwise harasses a bear. Our own experiences with bears have proven
this to be true.
To avoid crowds, hike during the week; avoid holidays;
go during the "off" season. Also, go in the morning before
most folks are through eating breakfast; this is a good time to see
wildlife and morning light is great for photography! You can also
avoid crowds by using the outlying trailheads such as those found
at the Cosby and Wears Valley entrances. I'm embarrassed to say we
didn't know these existed for our first 18 visits to the Smokies.
But to our delight, we found new vistas, trails, and landscapes to
"discover for the first time".
 ith
a little care and planning, your trip to the Smokies can be much more
rewarding and repay you with more great memories. You can enjoy not
only the visual splendor of the Park, you can view it without counting
out-of-state license plates, and you can get more fit in the bargain.
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